How do I fix a loose joint in a plastic recorder?
Another member of my band has a set of plastic recorders that are at least 20 years old and played often. Similar to this one:
They're plastic, not wood, so shouldn't be subject to fluctuations from weather. But the joints (particularly the ones connecting the head to the body) have become loose on some of them. How can he fix this? I assume he should be adding a thin layer of something, but what?
There is no obvious damage to the plastic (e.g. chipping). He stores them (disassembled) in the foam-lined case they came in.
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I use plumbers´ teflon tape, as suggested by Alan Munn, and find it perfect for the job. The tape is very thin and easy to apply in the required thickness. It doesn`t last for ever, but a roll of tape is cheap, and it takes only a couple of minutes to remove the old tape and apply a new layer.
Sticky-backed plastic. Sellotape (other brands are available...) will do the job, but he's better off not assembling/dismantling them. If they were mine, I'd probably put a bit of superglue or suchlike on the joints, mount the whole instrument together, and leave it permanently like that.There seems little point in taking them apart, unless there's a very long one, but even then, it's maybe only as long as an alto sax, and folks don't have a problem transporting those. I'm guessing the problem is them self-dismantling rather than leaking air.
I assumed at the time that it would be a descant causing problems - as tenors aren't cheap, probably don't fix permanently !
Soprano and Alto recorders are pretty cheap, relatively speaking. Honestly, it may be worthwhile to explore the possibility of purchasing new instruments. Unlike wood recorders, a plastic recorder's sound will not improve / mature over time, so if the cost of fixing them is comparable to purchasing new ones, it may be a viable alternative.
Personally, if your friend is bent on keeping them, I would recommend cork - the type used on clarinets and oboes. This guarantees a snug fit while allowing for adjustments in intonation, does not hurt the instrument, and can be replaced regularly. It's relatively inexpensive and is easy to apply. Keep in mind that because the cork is designed for clarinets and oboes that it may be too thick for the recorder, so some delicate shaving may need to take place in order to get the cork to the desired thickness.
Also, instruments are made to be adjusted and should never be permanently affixed together - this is a sure-fire way to damage the instrument. I know someone (a music teacher) that welded the slides of his school's brass instruments so that they would never go out of tune. He promptly and rightfully lost his job.
Cut a piece of paper to fit and scotch tape it to the joint. If still loose fold the paper over. The length of the paper should be a little less than the circumference of the joint so it will stay there because the tape will be on the paper and the joint.
I use this technique for all my recorders and all joints. It's completely reversable and cheap.
Just for completeness: The alternative to cork is waxed thread, which is wrapped around until the desired thickness is achieved. The wax helps to get the connection airtight. Many professionals prefer this to cork, since the diameter is more easily changed (especially if reducing is necessary after adding to much) and one simply may add more thread after some time.
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