How to correlate reps into training program when doing isometric exercises?
I'm doing max weighted dead hangs. To improve grip/finger strength for climbing. I'm doing a lot of research on how to create training programs to increase max strength but everything I've seen so far is related to movements where reps are a range of motion. With this particular exercise, it's not as obvious (or is it?). How can I relate reps into my training program?
Note: I don't feel that hanging for 10s jumping off and jumping right back on and doing another 10s would be analogous to doing reps.
I'm also trying to build max strength so I want to keep my reps low and intensity high and I'm just confused as to how I can relate typical ROM exercises to isometrics.
Any ideas are welcomed. Any resources/studies are appreciated!
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The fallacy of "counting repetitions" in isometrics
I would caution against using Prilepin's chart when it comes to measuring isometrics. The reason for this is something you already put very nicely. A "repetition" implies range of motion, and an isometric exercise has no range of motion. In fact, it has no motion at all.
Another approach
I would instead suggest that you simply figure out what weight you can hold for X seconds, and try to improve on them all.
For instance, let's say you can deadhang with
10kg for 70 seconds
20kg for 55 seconds
30kg for 30 seconds
40kg for 15 seconds
50kg for 5 seconds
Then on any given day you wish to measure progress, pick one, and note down positive change, if any.
On days you are not aiming to set a PB, train as usual. Of course, grip training should include more than just dead hangs, but that's a story for another question (which I encourage you to ask if you're into it, but be sure to search similar questions on the site first).
Bottom line
Prilepin's chart is a tool. It has its uses, but counting isometric "repetitions" isn't one of them. Find a different tool. You can use the one I suggested, or find another one somewhere. I'm sure there are wiser people than me that have thought about this already.
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